„With ice and lemon?“ Pez Gordo needs just one question to gain a slight edge over many of its competitors in the Canary Islands restaurant scene. Right from the very first interaction – and simply by offering water – the restaurant makes it clear where it stands. And it doesn’t stop at lip service and attentive service.
The restaurant is situated at the north-western tip of the Plaza del Charco, so it’s still close enough to the hustle and bustle of the nightlife in Puerto de la Cruz, yet pleasantly set back from it, allowing you to dine in peace.
The menu reflects both Canary Islands tradition and culinary expertise. It combines typical dishes from the archipelago with the very best from Europe. Anyone who enjoys fine dining will recognise many dishes that other restaurants in Tenerife also offer. Yet at Pez Gordo, everything is always presented with a touch of sophistication. Even the service feels, in the best sense of the word, as though it has been carefully choreographed.
Restaurante Pez Gordo in Puerto de la Cruz
There are no cardinal errors at Pez Gordo. Even at the very first point of contact with the kitchen, a surprisingly large number of restaurants still display a certain tendency towards sloppiness. Yet the bread basket at Pez Gordo is a real highlight. Thick slices of brown bread, crisply toasted. Served with a herb butter that’s uncharacteristic of the Canary Islands. A welcome break from the usual reheated bread with aioli (see the photo gallery at the end for all impressions).
Pez Gordo in Puerto de la Cruz puts a new spin on classic starters
And this impression continues. The starters menu features many classic dishes. However, those who order them are served a fresh take on the classics. For instance, whilst the tuna tartare is served in the traditional way on a bed of avocado, it is then garnished with caviar. Furthermore, the sauce is slightly spicy and impresses with its umami notes.
It’s much the same with the Caesar salad. This culinary classic, too, is anything but conventional. Three leaves of romaine lettuce form the base, topped with quail’s eggs, croutons, tomatoes and thin slices of Iberico bacon. The dressing is reminiscent of the classic version, yet takes it to a whole new level.
Main courses at Pez Gordo: the Canary Islands meet the EU
The same applies to the main courses: cod could remain a rather dull piece of fish, as in many other restaurants. Yet the particularly light yet sophisticated champagne foam makes the dish truly distinctive.
And on the meat menu, the sirloin – the cut from the loin of the beef – also has something special to offer: at first glance, the dish appears to be presented in the usual way. However, alongside the perfect level of doneness, it is the multi-layered sauce in particular that really stands out.
The potato side dish is one such example: a mixture of mashed potato and béchamel sauce is laid over a delicate garlic oil and placed beneath the main component itself. A delicate herb oil is then drizzled over the top to round off the dish.
The very ingredients used at Pez Gordo are a testament to the kitchen’s high standards. What makes the dishes truly special is the interplay between the individual components. Each one is superbly selected and prepared in its own right, but when they come together on your fork, they form a harmonious composition.
Desserts at Pez Gordo in Puerto de la Cruz: the best of the EU
Although the dessert menu is small, it once again holds some surprises. It features Canary Islands classics and, once again, the restaurant’s own take on European desserts, such as French toast or the lime mille-feuille. What is actually intended as a cake is transformed at Pez Gordo into a large biscuit layered with delicious cream. Crunch and subtle flavours thus round off the menu.
Hardly any deductions for Pez Gordo in Puerto Cruz
Pez Gordo lives up to its unspoken promise from the moment you walk in right through to the cortado afterwards. There are minor deductions for the QR codes still stuck to the tables, a relic from the long-forgotten crisis period. And the wine coolers also tilt dangerously to one side, as they aren’t designed for the thin-legged terrace tables.
Attentive service, excellent cuisine and prices that are relatively fair for the quality of the food on offer make this restaurant in Puerto de la Cruz in the north of Tenerife a real must-visit for those looking to enjoy a fresh European take on Canary Islands cuisine on an evening out.
The restaurant is situated at Calle Iriarte 1 in Puerto de la Cruz. It is open on Sundays, Wednesdays and Thursdays from 6 pm until midnight, and on Fridays and Saturdays until 1 am. The bar is also open on Fridays and Saturdays between 10 pm and 4 am.
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